
Frank Lenz was born in 1866 in Pittsburgh to a staid family of German immigrants, right at the dawn of the bicycle era. He would have grown up in an age when bicycles weren’t viewed simply as the garden-variety means of transportation they are today, but had an exoticism to them, as (for example) skateboard culture for kids growing up in the 1980s.
Lenz could have led the simple, prescriptive life of a bookkeeper (his chosen trade) in the Midwest, but for his bicycling habit, which took him further and further afield from home. In 1889, he pedaled his way to New York City and back again. The following year saw him and a friend making their way from Pittsburgh to St. Louis. And the year afterward, he and another friend travelled via penny-farthing high-wheelers to New Orleans.
Not only would Lenz mount these ambitious trips on a yearly basis, but as a better-than-amateur photographer, would record his adventures on film for posterity. Gradually, as he grew in confidence and ability, Lenz began to see the distinct possibility of travelling across the world via bicycle, and recording his travails. As Lenz himself wrote, “I had become so familiar with my bike, that to ride it, laden like a packhorse, had become second nature. Still, I yearned, like Alexander, for new fields to conquer.”
In mid-1892, at the age of 25, Lenz set off cross-country, westwards from New York City, to bike the entire world. Such was the acclaim he’d accumulated by then that he had an impossible time actually biking out of Manhattan, such were the crowds who cheered him along his way. Except for a few close brushes (a train almost hit him in Minnesota, and he tumbled 30 feet down a cliff in Montana, with only a few nicks and scratches), Lenz reached San Francisco in October of 1892 to wild acclaim and fanfare. As he wrote in a dispatch back to Outing magazine, a premier adventure travel magazine of its day, “My wheel, loaded with baggage, canteen, revolver, the Indian bow and arrows, and an old buffalo horn from the plains, was a curiosity to the mass of business men, clerks and workmen” who greeted him there.
From there, Lenz took off on a steamer bound for Hawaii, and then Japan. Japan was, for Lenz, a perfect place for cycling, with modern, well-maintained roads, “something akin to an Earthly Eden and an ideal land for travel.”
It was in China that Lenz found his first real difficulties. The Chinese road system of the 1890s was completely unsuitable for bicycling, being a morass of dirt and mud roads that stretched on for hundreds of miles. Lenz spent a large amount of time having his bike carried for him by “hired opium addicts” over otherwise impassable mountain ranges. Furthermore, Chinese peasants would flee at the approach of his bike, or fling stones and clubs at him.
Barely making it alive through China (several times he had to draw his revolver to disperse an angry mob), he came into British-controlled Burma, where he promptly came down with a severe case of malaria that delayed his journey for many weeks.
From Burma he cycled across India on the Grand Trunk Road, the ancient trade route that snaked through the heart of the subcontinent, and on into Persia (present-day Iran), where the last-known photograph of him was taken in the city of Tabriz.
From there, Lenz was bound for the wilds of the Ottoman Empire, and on into Europe, though he never made it that far. As an article from the archive of The New York Times, written September 29th, 1895, puts it: “Pittsburgh, Penn – Frank Lenz, bicycle rider, was beyond doubt murdered by the Kurds in Tchelkain, Armenia, in May 1894… Lenz stopped in this village one night, and was never again seen alive.”
The article goes further on to speculate about the reasons the villagers killed Lenz. Either the Kurds mistook the wheels of Lenz’s bike to be made of silver, and killed him in order to rob him, or (more strangely), having never before seen a man riding a bike, and not knowing whether Lenz was a man or a demon, they decided to shoot at him to end the debate. Either way, Lenz’s dispatches home stopped coming. And while Lenz’s body was never recovered, many witnesses swore up and down that indeed he was dead.
Today, bike travel remains a popular means of crossing the world. And indeed, the world has become a much less difficult place for bicyclists to cross, what with safer roads and populations that (presumably) no longer mistake cyclists for demons. That being said, Lenz’s story remains a compelling testament to the perils of exotic travel, whether it be on bike or otherwise.